I finally managed to make a basic tank top pattern that fits my curves and hides my bra.
It took several hours and many tries.
It started with my favorite bra. A Victoria's Secret that has an option to hook the straps together at the center back.
And in case you are wondering.... it's being modeled by Bertha Belle. I followed some on-line directions on how to make a personalized dress form with duct tape. I was later offered a free dress form, so the duct tape one is over the real one, picking up some of my lumps and bumps, but not really an accurate representation.
At this point I opted for another glass of wine and bed.
The neck line was close, but still too wide at the shoulders.
Too much fabric.
Just plain awful.
And the back in no way covers the bra.
Next round of correction attempts included taking 1" off the back straps, removing a 1" wedge from the underarm on the back.
The problem with the front is completely about the boobs. I learned to sew when I was a 34 A. I am now a 38 C. After a half dozen other attempts, I concluded that this was only ever going to work with a dart.
I made a series of changes to the pattern and tried again.
There was one post sewing adaptation to get the underarm seam even.
I may try making the dart a little shorter so it's less noticeable.
That 2" is critical to a form fitting design.
Clearly, I need to pump up Bertha's hips to match mine.
Looks like I might want to add some bootie volume.
But the arm-pit / boob issue is a success!
Wait? how can the shirt look even across the front with the straight on view, but rise up from the side?
Ug. I hate 3-D sewing.