Saturday, June 14, 2014

Sewing Clothing

Can I start by complaining that sewing 3-dimensional objects is unreasonably difficult.

I finally managed to make a basic tank top pattern that fits my curves and hides my bra.

It took several hours and many tries.


It started with my favorite bra.  A Victoria's Secret that has an option to hook the straps together at the center back.

And in case you are wondering.... it's being modeled by Bertha Belle.   I followed some on-line directions on how to make a personalized dress form with duct tape.   I was later offered a free dress form, so the duct tape one is over the real one, picking up some of my lumps and bumps, but not really an accurate representation.

This dress is a RTW that is one of my favorite knit dresses.  It nearly covers the bra and is loose and comfortable.

So last night I had it and my custom woven tank dress pattern laid out, trying to figure out how to combine the best of each for a nude knit under-layer for my Class Reunion dress.

At this point I opted for another glass of wine and bed.

This morning I started drafting a pattern.  I took the t-shirt pattern I nearly perfected last year, the tank dress pattern that fits pretty well, and my best prediction of the distance and angles representing adaptations to match the bra configuration. Then I pinned it on Bertha, added some lines and then drew out a pattern.

I volunteered an old t-shirt for the job.

The neck line was close, but still too wide at the shoulders.

The underarm was a complete mess!!!!

Too much fabric.

Too flared.

Just plain awful.



And the back in no way covers the bra.

$#&@@#**$*(#&*%#

Next round of correction attempts included taking 1" off the back straps, removing a 1"  wedge from the underarm on the back.

The problem with the front is completely about the boobs.  I learned to sew when I was a 34 A.  I am now a 38 C.  After a half dozen other attempts, I concluded that this was only ever going to work with a dart.

A second t-shirt was called into service.
I made a series of changes to the pattern and tried again.
There was one post sewing adaptation to get the underarm seam even.

I may try making the dart a little shorter so it's less noticeable.

That 2" is critical to a form fitting design.

 I also ended up raising the back neck-line to cover the bra.
And, here it is on my real body.
Clearly, I need to pump up Bertha's hips to match mine.
Hmmmm... what's with those wrinkles?

Looks like I might want to add some bootie volume.


But the arm-pit / boob issue is a success!

Wait?  how can the shirt look even across the front with the straight on view, but rise up from the side?

Ug.  I hate 3-D sewing.


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