Saturday, June 14, 2014

Sewing Clothing

Can I start by complaining that sewing 3-dimensional objects is unreasonably difficult.

I finally managed to make a basic tank top pattern that fits my curves and hides my bra.

It took several hours and many tries.

It started with my favorite bra.  A Victoria's Secret that has an option to hook the straps together at the center back.

And in case you are wondering.... it's being modeled by Bertha Belle.   I followed some on-line directions on how to make a personalized dress form with duct tape.   I was later offered a free dress form, so the duct tape one is over the real one, picking up some of my lumps and bumps, but not really an accurate representation.

This dress is a RTW that is one of my favorite knit dresses.  It nearly covers the bra and is loose and comfortable.

So last night I had it and my custom woven tank dress pattern laid out, trying to figure out how to combine the best of each for a nude knit under-layer for my Class Reunion dress.

At this point I opted for another glass of wine and bed.

This morning I started drafting a pattern.  I took the t-shirt pattern I nearly perfected last year, the tank dress pattern that fits pretty well, and my best prediction of the distance and angles representing adaptations to match the bra configuration. Then I pinned it on Bertha, added some lines and then drew out a pattern.

I volunteered an old t-shirt for the job.

The neck line was close, but still too wide at the shoulders.

The underarm was a complete mess!!!!

Too much fabric.

Too flared.

Just plain awful.

And the back in no way covers the bra.


Next round of correction attempts included taking 1" off the back straps, removing a 1"  wedge from the underarm on the back.

The problem with the front is completely about the boobs.  I learned to sew when I was a 34 A.  I am now a 38 C.  After a half dozen other attempts, I concluded that this was only ever going to work with a dart.

A second t-shirt was called into service.
I made a series of changes to the pattern and tried again.
There was one post sewing adaptation to get the underarm seam even.

I may try making the dart a little shorter so it's less noticeable.

That 2" is critical to a form fitting design.

 I also ended up raising the back neck-line to cover the bra.
And, here it is on my real body.
Clearly, I need to pump up Bertha's hips to match mine.
Hmmmm... what's with those wrinkles?

Looks like I might want to add some bootie volume.

But the arm-pit / boob issue is a success!

Wait?  how can the shirt look even across the front with the straight on view, but rise up from the side?

Ug.  I hate 3-D sewing.

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